TF-104G Starfighter HAF TF906

TF-104G Starfighter PROJECT

For this build I used Hasegawa’s 07240/PT40 kit.
After the basic build finished, I prepared the model for the painting procedure. I washed it with soap water to remove any grease from my hands and dust remains. The first stage started by spraying Mig Ammo’s primer in light coats (pic.1 & 2 ).I mixed the gray and white primer for a lighter gray primer shade. Using primers we can detect any flaws on our models and prepare the surface for the paint.
The painting procedure for the 3 tone color pattern started by painting the lighter color (mixed color with the basic Tamiya XF-58 olive green and XF-19 sky gray in a 70/30 ratio). The next color is Gunze H309 green. Last is the darkest color. For that I used Tamiya’s XF-85 and XF-19 in a 80/20 ratio. The radome was painted by using Gunze H316 white and Tamiya XF-62 olive drab. For the cammo pattern I used the Blue Tak technique.
By adding some drops of light gray (XF-19) I made the highlights to the cammo colors (pics. 3&4). I preferred the gray instead of white because the contrast between the colors is softer.
After the paint job finished I gave the whole model multiple coats of clear gloss varnish from Ammo range to seal the cammo colors and prepare the surface to accept the decals (pics 5&6)
After glossing amd decalling the model, the highlights effect reduced, so with Tamiya’s X-19 smoke I gave some post shade effects to wear the cammo closer to the reality (pic. 10)
Then I gave some attention to the wing and sub-wing tanks. At first I sprayed them with Mr Metal Color 218 aluminum which is buffable and with my finger I buffed them (pic. 7). After that I applied with a brush a layer of Ammo Chipping Fluid (scratches effects ammo-2010) that later with a brush and some water gave them the chipping effect (pic.8). At last I post shade them by using a sandy color. In this case Tamiya XF-60 dark yellow was the chosen one (pic. 9)
Next step was to give some attention to landing gear and exhaust nozzle. Both sprayed with Black base primer from Mig Ammo-Alclad collaboration and let it dry for 24 hours (pic.11)
Then I used Alclad’s aluminum and sprayed the gear (pic.17)
Mig-Ammo PLW Black Night gave some depth to the gear (pic.18)
The nozzle was painted externally with Alclad’s stainless steel (pic.20) and with the Mr metal color 214 dark iron internally (pic.21)
When dried, it sprayed with Alclad’s Aqua gloss varnish and let it dry for 24 hours (pic.24). Then it received a PLW black night wash to give the correct effect (pic.26)
Last step for the nozzle was to spray it with a satin varnish from ammo range (pic.27/28)
The basic weathering stage to the model started and for that I used PLW Deep Brown wash from Ammo range for the 2 greens of the cammo pattern (pic.12). I let the wash dry (pic.13) and then with a piece of soft paper towel I cleaned the wash from the model’s surfaces (pic.14). For the black areas I used PLW Stone Gray for Black from Ammo (pic.15), let it dry (pic.16) and cleaned it like the previous step.
Wheelwells both received a PLW Black Night wash to show the details (pic.19)
Finally I sprayed the model with a matt varnish from Ammo in a 50/50 mix with Ammo’s acrylic thinners. Give it at least 24 hours to dry before touching it (pics.22/23)
For the navigation lights I first applied Microscale’s Crystal Klear to the specific holes I opened in the beginning of the build (pic.25), let it dry as a transparent film and then with Ammo crystal green and red painted the lights (pic.29 )
With a little scratch built I made the internal structural of the canopies using evergreen’s plastic rods and led tape (see final pics) because Hasegawa has no detail at all. This is maybe the only negative of the specific model except of any weapon absence that is standard for the brand.
Final pics…

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